After leaving Boat Cove (Bay?) on Lasqueti Island I made the long trip across and down to the northern Gulf Islands. The wind was light for the first hour so I motored but after an hour or so it picked up enough to roll out the genoa for some motor sailing. I needed to recharge the batteries and run the water maker so motoring for a while was best. After another hour I was ready to shut down the engine and let the building breeze do the work. I was doing 6 knots under genoa alone. I ended up sailing almost all the rest of the way down doing 7+ knots as the wind built to 20 knots from astern. It was a nice sunny, downwind sail.
Some nice little rollers building up in the Strait of Georgia
Winchelsea Island with a BC ferry heading to Vancouver in the background
I rolled up the genoa and motored past Silva Bay and into Dogfish Cove next to Kendrick Island for an overnight stay before heading through Gabriola Passage the next day. I like this little anchorage and this is the second time I’ve been here. It was a bit windy but not crowded. Shot through the Gabriola Pass with a good 2-3 knot current pushing me around and motored down to the old reliable Clam Bay. I had debated trying a small cove in the entrance to Ladysmith Harbor but didn’t want to chance it might be full and have to divert back to another anchorage.
My summer is winding down and I have always wanted to visit Butchart Gardens so this seems like a good chance to make that happen. The weather actually looked decent. I needed to make one more stop in Genoa Bay, North Cowichan before heading to Todd Inlet which is right next to the Gardens. Genoa Bay was okay but I would go back. Anchorage is open to the south and swells and wakes roll right in. It was convenient. Getting there was nice though. The trip through Sansome Narrows is very pretty.
Another motor down to Todd Inlet Friday morning and by noon I was anchored in with a dozen other boats. At first it seemed too crowded but there is little to no wind and no current so boats don’t move much. There always seems to be room for one more boat. I dropped the dinghy into the water, grabbed my camera and headed to the beach to find the trail that leads to Butchart Gardens.
Todd Inlet from the trail to the gardens (Kinetics is lone sailboat)
It’s maybe a 15-20 walk by trail and road to the main entrance. I think I was the only person to arrive on foot! Had lunch at the restaurant and spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the grounds. Took a lot of pictures but they’re in the Fuji XT. I still have to upload and cull them. Beautiful even in late summer and nice to be able to do some walking. I can finally check that one off the list!
This update combines several stops on my return south. Shorter stays as I stop for supplies and dodge weather make for a bit less to say. However, with one exception all of these places are new to me so I have been able to stay with the plan to see new locations on my return journey home.
From Handfield Bay I hopped down to an interesting little cove on the west side of Quadra Island called Small Inlet. Reached by passing through a narrow, kelp chocked pass, it provided decent shelter from some strong NW winds for a couple days. I anchored in the very back behind a couple small islets. There was room for maybe two or three boats. I had only one other power boat join me for one night. I didn’t bother to put the dinghy in the water given the windy conditions and knowing I was leaving soon.
Small Inlet and the islets at the very back. The last day the wind had let up.
From Small Inlet it was down the last part of Discovery Passage, through Seymore Narrows and to the Discovery Harbour Marina at Campbell River. The Narrows rapids were a non-event as the tide this day was a neap one. I had good current helping almost the entire way. Two nights in the marina let me top off the water tanks, batteries, dispose of the trash, do a load of laundry, and visit a big market (twice) to stock up on fresh food items. This is a very convenient place to do this. I wanted to visit their museum but just didn’t have time given my list of chores. Boats have never ending maintenance lists.
A long day of motoring took me to Hornby Island and Tribune Bay. A repeat visit from a few years ago where I spent some time here with my friends Dan and Irene. However, the forecast was for strong SE winds the next day so it was up and out of there the next morning and off to Lesqueti Island. I had wanted to visit this island on my way home and so I made the choice to head there despite some unsettled weather.
Looking south out of Tribune Bay on Hornby Island. Only a few boats here.
Because of the rain and wind due in this day I made for False Bay which I knew would offer good protection from the strong SE winds. It was also the closest. A bit crowded with private moorings, something I have noticed more and more in a lot of anchorages, but I got lucky when another sailboat was departing and a spot opened up.
The next day the wind was supposed to switch around and I wanted to head south so I decided to trust the forecast. Typical, it was wrong. Not sure why but the Canadian forecasts are generally not too reliable. We’re spoiled in the US with excellent and detailed weather data. I explored several coves on the west side of the island but they were all to exposed or too deep. I ended up in Boat Cove on the west side of Lasqueti. It’s a bit lumpy but tolerable and hopefully the wind will eventually turn and things should calm down. Based on the forecast, if it’s remotely correct, I’m here until Tuesday when I will head south again for the Vancouver Island side and get back into the Northern Gulf Islands. I want to get into more protected water with these frontal systems that seem to be rolling through almost weekly now.
Leaving False Bay, Lasqueti Island, after one night.
My first stop on my return southbound on the Inside Passage is Handfield Bay which is part of the Thurston Marine Park. There are a few adjoining larger bays, one of which is directly connected. Not as picturesque as Cordero but much larger in size. The NW winds also make it in here and they have been fairly steady since I arrived on Thursday. I decided on Friday it was time to rig the dinghy for sailing. The big open bay looked perfect and I had the place to myself.
It wasn’t as hard as I thought to rig it from the boat but it still takes some planning
I spent the afternoon exploring the bays under sail. The Spindrift sails very nicely. I need to improve a few things but the design is actually a good sailing boat.
The channels getting to this anchorage from the Cordero Islands were nice. Here are a couple images from that trip on Thursday morning and one sunset from the Handfield Bay itself. I plan to move on south again very soon.
After checking out of the Blind Channel Resort I dropped anchor in the nearby Cordero Islands. Intending to stay only a couple of days before moving on to Port Neville and then the Broughtons I found a good place inside the small chain.
An abandoned dock in bay that once served the only home on the shoreline (I assume no one lives there now)
I waited patiently for a good forecast in Johnstone Strait and Queen Charlette Strait to head north. Each day the forecast got windier and then I saw a series of small fronts starting to line up off shore. I spent one day after another trying to decide whether to advance myself up the inside passage or not. Meanwhile the conditions here in the Cordero anchorage were very nice!
The dinghy with Kinetics in the background
I finally decided that Summer was ending a few weeks early and I had no desire to spend my final few weeks moving from cove to cove staying out of strong westerly winds and rain which is more than 50% likely to be what’s in store for September in Blackfish Sound and parts north.
So this is the end of my northward journey for this year. I will take my time heading back south and visit bays and harbors I have and have not seen before. I have all of September to do so and I think the weather will be better as I head south. I’ve had the Cordero Islands almost all to myself for a few days now. It is like someone flipped a switch and most of the boats have disappeared. I hope it stays that way as I make my way home.
The tide rushing through the gap between one of the islands and the mainland
Here are some photos I took on my short hike around the Blind Channel Resort on West Thurlow Island. The area above the resort is forested but logged in the past 100 years. The original owners of the resort engaged with the logging firm to allow trails to be created. It is a great asset for them and I really enjoyed getting some exercise and breathing some fresh air. One highlight are a couple of old red cedars that were left standing. Beautiful examples that I hope live for another 100 years or more.
Fresh water stream flows down into Mayne channel with the marina in the background
The smaller of the two big cedars
The big cedar, the top of which you can’t really see
Last Sunday I departed under cloudy skies for Blind Channel Resort on Mayne Passage just short of Green Point Rapids. This looked like my only chance to get further north and stay somewhere secure for the incoming front. I needed to recharge batteries, refill on water, pick up a few groceries, do some laundry and get out for a little exercise. They have nice hiking trails I hope to try while I’m here. There is a big old cedar tree up the trail that is worth a visit apparently.
I very glad I was here for the rain and wind that came through last night. It dumped what I suspect was over an inch of rain and the gusts of wind were pretty significant. Almost lost my Starlink device which I ended up having to tie down to keep it from sailing away.
The first night I had a really good dinner at their restaurant, the Cedar Post, I haven’t eaten food that good in quite some time. The service was also very good. I can recommend the Blind Channel Resort and Marina.
Here is a shot from my route between the Octopus Islands and Blind Channel. My timing for the Oskillo rapids was good and I had favorable current most of the way. The expected hurting current in Mayne channel at the end was far less than expected and I arrived a little early.
After waiting out the front that rolled through BC on Sunday I departed Pender Harbor early Monday morning for the long run up the rest of the Georgia Strait to overnight in Cortes Bay on Cortes Island. The day started out sunny and nice leaving Pender Harbor.
Despite the repeated warning for waterspouts I saw nothing but overcast skies and light winds in the Strait. I made a stop in Westview Harbor to top off the fuel tank. Surprisingly tight little marina! Especially at low tide.
The young woman manning the fuel dock was fantastic at helping me get tied up and departing in the tight space. Her recommended pivot and turn made my departure quick and easy. Thank you!
The views on the way up were typical BC.
After an uneventful night in Cortes Bay I woke up to light rain. I retrieved the anchor without ramming the big powerboat the anchored too close last night and headed out right on time. I had carefully calculated my route to catch the slack at Beasley Passage and Surge Narrows off Quadra Island around 11:15am. It was nice having the new radar on board as visibility was not great in the rain and mist.
I had to slow way down as I approached Beasley Passage. The ebb tidal flow was pushing me most of the way there. Better early to these things than late. I was the only boat going north. I met a handful of boats going south, one of which I shared the pass with. Both the pass and the Narrows were smooth and presented no problems. Having the ebb tide with me I made quick time up the entrance to the Octopus Islands Marine Park where I expect to stay for several days. It’s very nice here and not crowded so far. I’ll wait for my chance to head north up Johnstone Strait in calm weather. For now, more rain then some sunny days with views like these.
This post covers a lot of hops since Sucia Island in the US. I just didn’t have the motivation to do one sooner. I’m now in John Henry’s Marina, Pender Harbor, Canada on a beautiful Saturday morning. While there is supposed to be rain and wind on the way, today is going to be warm and nice. I was happy to get a slip here in the marina after finding all the anchorages packed with only tight, sketchy spots left to drop the hook in.
Being here also allows me to take advantage of a washer and dryer for my month of laundry, get rid of some trash and to simply be able to get off the boat and walk. They have a nice restaurant, store, and fuel here as well. Docks are brand new.
Between Sucia Island and Pender Harbor I made a few stops. I made my way over to Stuart Island’s Reid Harbor before heading over the border. I like this island but it was a bit crowed so I anchored way out. That left me in the zone of constant power boat wakes. I stayed a few days and managed to hike up to the School House where I restocked on my favorite tee shirts and met the woman who, along with her husband, makes them. Boundary Pass Traders.
From here it is a short hop over the South Pender Island to check into Canada where I met a couple on their way up from Edmonds in a power boat. After a lot of questions from the local border officer it was off to Ganges Harbor on Salt Spring Island for the usual grocery provisions and a visit to the Farmer’s Market and bookstore in town. Ganges Harbor is too busy, noisy and often too windy for me so I headed out after just two nights for Clam Bay on Thetis Island.
Clam Bay is generally a quite place to hang out for a few days before heading to Nanaimo or further north. I took the dinghy through a cut in the island over to Telegraph Harbor and had my first ice cream cone in a very long time.
Looking at the weather for the Georgia Strait, Friday was going to be the only day with guaranteed good weather for a crossing so it was up a 6am and off to Pender Harbor. I snapped this photo of Texada Island on the crossing. It is a very imposing landmark in the middle of the Strait.
I’ll be heading north again on Monday unless the weather makes it impossible. Next stop will be somewhere near Cortes Island most likely.
Checked into the Van Isle Marina just north of Sydney in Tsehum Harbor. Very nice marina and a super helpful staff at the fuel dock. Took a short walk around and the facilities are first class. I’m tucked in between boats that look rather expensive. I’m hoping the behemoth of a power boat across the dock gives up the only water spigot in sight so I can fill my tanks. That thing must hold a few thousand gallons of water! They probably have a hot tub and shower twice a day.
Unfortunately I have determined my beleaguered raw water pump is now leaking at the shaft seal and I don’t dare take it apart again without another to replace it. Summer Canadian cruise over. I will start the trek home in the morning. Between boat issues and the wildfires with all their smoke I think it is time. It was a good run considering I almost had to turn back before I had hardly started. I will have to visit Butchart Gardens another time.
Full service, including Can Pass check ins. Sydney and shopping is a couple miles though. They have loaner bikes and Thrifty will deliver.
August 15, 2018
Six days since I had cell service good enough to upload photos and update this post. The big news is the fires in BC and all the smoke. The past few days have been progressively getting worse. At first it looked like just haze but that orange tint was telling. Today is slightly better but after a hike around Sydney Island’s Sydney Spit park I could feel it in my lungs. The forecast is for some improvement by week’s end but then more of the same next week. I’m seriously considering calling it quits early and heading home. The fires are all over BC and I suspect it could be weeks before it gets any better. I will make a stop at Butchart Gardens on Friday and see what it looks like for the weekend.
Since the last update I’ve been to Clam Bay which would have been nice but the weather was cool, cloudy and the smoke was moving in. Just wasn’t feeling that good so moved on quickly. My cruising buddies, Dan and Irene were heading for Montague Harbor for some margaritas so that sounded good. It was nice but again the smoke, weather and crowds didn’t resonate. Moving again we headed over to Ganges to stock up on supplies and I wanted to see the town. I like Ganges as a place to stop and resupply. Easy access to food, stores and so forth. The fuel dock looked like a no go for me so I passed on fueling up. The smoke was getting really bad so after catching the Farmer’s Market on Tuesday afternoon which was the best one I have been to in a long time we pulled anchor the next day.
I want to see Butchart Gardens while I am up here and you can do that by anchoring out near one of their entrances and going ashore in the dinghy. Dan and Irene wanted to stop at Sydney Island so I figured I would see that with them and go to the Gardens after that as they are heading back to the US. It has been really fun hopping around the islands with them. We went to some places they have never been and they showed me the ins and outs of cruising this part of Canada.
Have not been to inspired to take photos because of all the smoke but here are some from the past few days.
Clam Bay
Leaving Ganges in the smoke
August 9, 2018
Here in Nanaimo with cell service so I can upload some pics from the last stop at Valdes Island Marine Park. I met up with Irene and Dan there where we slipped through Gabriola Pass and into Dogfish Cove between Valdes and Kendrick Island (it’s tiny and claimed by the West Vancouver Yacht Club). Very pretty spot and room for just a few boats. The marine park is the northern end of Valdes Island and undeveloped but there are some existing roads to walk. It was nice and a first time visit for all of us and then we were off to Hornby Island the next day, a 5 hour trip north.
Hornby Island. A cool spot to visit and as far north as I will go this year. It is very popular and we estimated at solid 60 boats in Tribune Bay one evening. It is a large bay and during the day the big sandy beach is buzzing with Canadians and other tourists here to enjoy one of the best beaches for swimming (water was 72) in BC. The Island has a hippy vibe. A campground nearby plus all the boaters makes this a great place for families. This week has been a hot one. It seems we’re in a heat wave here in the PNW and it sure feels hot, even on the water. The only negative for me here is the mosquitos found me. I visited the little co-op, which is well stocked, and bought some window screen to fashion temporary bug screens on my ports and hatches. Since I got mega zapped in Mexico I seem to be sensitive to the bites and swell up nicely!
The stay here in Nanaimo will be brief. Too many boats in too little space. Too noisy. Too smelly. Anchoring in crowded bays with boats of various sizes and different anchoring hardware is a bit too much work. I always seem to, despite trying, fail to get it right when I have to crowd in. My all chain setup and boat often end up sliding up next to some small boat on all rope requiring me to pick and move. We’re out of here. The Dinghy Dock Pub music trivia night was a riot though. Here are a couple pics from Valdes Island.
Beja Flor, Dan and Irene’s boat next to mine in Dogfish Cove
Valdes Island Marine Park
August 4, 2018
Ladysmith Days! It was parade day in Ladysmith so I hiked up to town to see the sights and watch a parade. I walked First Street for the better part of the historic portion and then some. Some well preserved early 1900’s buildings in use by businesses was nice to see with a few waiting for someone to find a new use for them. This reminded me a lot of Winslow on Bainbridge Island and the parades they have there each year featuring a lot of community spirit. I had a nice conversation with a gentleman that works for the Maritime Society and he provided some interesting local color. I found a cool used book store and picked up a copy of How the Soldier Repairs the Gramophone for $2 Canadian. I even found a nice crepe and coffee shop for lunch on my way back to the marina. I’m glad I stopped here. Nice marina, interesting town with a good deal of hitstory built on the labor of natural resource extraction and processing.
Ladysmith Inn, really
1900’s vintage buildings still in use
The Maritime Society has a nice museum near the marina
Ships badges
August 3, 2018
Finally have some cell service here in Ladysmith, B.C. so this is a long post. Stopping over in the Ladysmith Community Marina for a couple nights to resupply, charge the batteries, put a bigger hole in the raw water intake screen, do some laundry and see the sights. This town is an active logging center here on Vancouver Island. Tomorrow I will hike (up the hill) into town which is supposed to be frozen quite a few decades in the past. Photos to come on that. Turns out they are having a 3 day celebration with parades, music and more this weekend. I was lucky to get a slip. The marina is nice with all the amenities in good repair, clean and close. The Oyster Bay cafe served up a tasty veggie wrap. The two washer and two dryer laundry room was also very clean and I won’t have to wash things in the sink for a few weeks.
The nearby hardware store provided me with a 12″ long 3/8″ drill that I used to pop a big hole in the perforated plate that was clearly limiting my engine raw water intake flow. Just adding that 3/8″ hole turned the flow from a anemic burble to an enthusiastic gusher! Fingers crossed this may also solve my long running, mysterious steaming exhaust output. It looked like the previous flow was not enough to keep up with the demand of the water pump which might have caused the exhaust to be getting too hot and generate steam. I won’t know until I am able to run the engine at cruise under load.
Now backing up a few days, on leaving Spencer Spit things got interesting in a bad way. That day was one that might have ended my trip if not for some very good fortune and help from the best neighbors ever.
Within the first 30 minutes of departure I noticed my charging system did not seem to be working. With my battery bank already low from days at anchor this was not good. I made a quick stop in the next bay to have a look. I tried the backup regulator with no success. Clearly no amps going into the batteries. My intention was to go to Friday Harbor and hopefully get a slip or dock space that day anyway. Off I went. Within 10 minutes I hit a 10 foot floating log. All indications are the only damage was to my mental state. At some point I sent a text message to my neighbors Dan and Irene. They were already in the San Juan Islands but the important part is that Dan is a retired marine electrician. A really good one. They encouraged me to make my stop at Friday Harbor and just continue on to meet them at Stuart Island and let Dan diagnose the problem. He felt confident we could sort it out.
After finding Friday Harbor to be a madhouse of boats all looking for space I did a quick anchor out (after going aground momentarily while trying to find a spot!). I took the dinghy in and walked up to the store for what I needed (almost everything) and returned to a disgruntled fellow boater I had anchor too close to. Sorry about that. Up anchor and out of that zoo!
I reached Stuart Island, a favorite of mine from a previous trip, at the same time as Dan and Irene. We sorted our anchoring out and had a beer to unwind. With the engine cooled down Dan came over and he checked things over and confirmed that the alternator was not producing any output. Dang.
Hang on. His next suggestion is that I pull it off and we tear it apart on his back deck! Sure, why not. Irene made a great meal for us all and then I learned at lot in a couple hours about how these things work. It is one thing to read about it but much better to actually tear them apart and see it for real. Turns out the brushes, as he suspected were the problem. One was so worn it has come out of the holder and was no longer making full contact with the armature. An hour of tweaking, careful sanding and reassembly and I was back on my boat putting it all back together hoping this might get it working. If not, getting a replacement alternator was going to put me into a marina for several days waiting for one to be delivered to an island via float plane.
Started the engine up and bam, it worked. The output was still not 100% but it was charging at least and I was now at least not going to be dead flat in a day or so. Dan is the man.
The next day we get together and talk about what to do next. I’m prepared to figure out how to get a new one sent ahead somewhere that I can pick it up. However, Dan has a very generous offer to keep me going until I get back to Seattle. He happens to have a backup alternator, a spare, on board that he is willing to donate the brushes from. With new brushes I should be good to go until I can have mine rebuilt at home. Their boat has a killer solar system and they rarely need engine charging. He assures me even if he needs the spare he can borrow parts from the failed one to get the spare running and I tell him I will fly in parts wherever he needs them if that happens. What a relief it is to not have to head back or deal with ordering something and all the hassle. THANK YOU Dan and Irene!
Dan and Irene’s friends Axel and Daphne arrive at Stuart the next day and we all have a great time. The hike to the Turn Point Lighthouse is always nice.
Next stop we all agree is Canada! Deciding it would be fun to go to Montague Harbor as a group we depart together on 7/31. They go via Bedwell to check in to Customs and I use my CanPass and go direct.
Montague Harbor is on Galiano Island (named after a surveyor and map maker). It is a picturesque place with room for a lot of boats and a campground at the north end of the harbor. It is best known by boaters for its Pub Bus which takes people up the hill to a nice restaurant. The bus is driven by Tommy and he is the entertainment playing percussion with one hand and steering with the other. Everyone on the bust gets some kind of percussion instrument to play along with a stream of tunes on 15 minute ride. It was a blast and our bus was full. Not surprising as the harbor was equally full. The unexpected SE winds had driven in a lot of people looking for refuge.
I have a lot of pictures accumulating but the internet is still a bit slow so I will only be able to load a few now and hope I can add some later.
Departing Stuart Island early in the morning
The famous Pub Bus with Tommy at the wheel
Some awesome people to share a meal with: L>R Dan, Irene, Axel, Brad M., Deb, Daphne
Montague seaside
Dinghy conga line after margarita night at the marina
Yes. I really was in Montague Harbor, BC
July 27, 2108
After a few very nice days in Hunter Bay I decided it was time to move on. I had no luck crabbing. Everything I pulled up was undersized. In a way, I was relieved by not having to kill and clean them. I am growing more conflicted about eating animals of any kind. The pressure we put on the fishery is too great I fear. This picture of Hunter Bay looks like so many other bays but it is a nice place for just stopping and relaxing I think. The only negative here is the water is muddy despite its blue appearance here.
Hunter Bay, Lopez Island, WA
I wanted to see Spencer Spit which is just a few miles North. I have. A bit crowded, as I expected, and the anchorage is rolly from all the power boat wakes. I went ashore to get some exercise and took a few snaps. The water on the North side of the Spit is clear as you can see in the first image below. The water on the South side is muddy and brown like it was in Hunter Bay. The last image in this set is the salt marsh on the Spit.
I’m ready to move on in the morning when the fog lifts.
Spencer Spit, Lopez Island, WA
July 25, 2018
Finally out of Port Townsend hanging off the hook in a quiet bay on Lopez Island in the southern end of Lopez Sound. The weather is about as perfect as it gets. I’m settling into not having an agenda. No plans. No timetable. Reading, listening to music, fixing some nice food and doing a little boat work. Yep. I actually started painting some of the non-skid today. I wanted to do it before I left but the anchor windlass project took all my time. With the perfect weather and no agenda it is the ideal time to spend an hour or two each day working my way around the boat. The first two sections look great.
Being out on the water away from the city is an amazingly wonderful feeling. We really need to take radically better care of this planet.
Uploading photos is slow using the intermittent cell phone service but here are few more from earlier in the week.
July 22, 2018
With a gap in project work and a spectacular Northwest Summer staring me in the face I saw no better time than to take off in the boat for the San Juan and Gulf Islands until I get bored or there is work. After installing a new windlass (not planned of course) I made my departure on July 20th under sunny skies, perfect weather and a favorable tide. Within a few hours I was anchored off the waterfront of Port Townsend, WA. Lot’s to like about this town and it is a great stopover for timing the crossing of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Despite what I think is careful maintenance of Kinetics I have failed somewhere in the engine department. I find myself stranded and waiting for a water pump impeller to arrive on Monday. Sadly, I never noticed the spare that came with the boat was oh so deceptively wrong and failed to save the day. I must have missed changing the impeller on schedule and the existing one has become feeble. That or I haven’t found the root cause of the anemic water flow I see exiting the stern despite pulling almost every hose off the cooling system. Boat mysteries are something I have now come to accept. They just are.
So in the meantime I enjoy the beautiful weather, read, relax and take a few pictures. I am finally getting around to reading Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard, the driving force behind the company Patagonia. I like it and recommend it. We need more companies like Patagonia before it’s too late.
